The quiche that made Michael Anthony love leeks in Paris cooking school

I didn’t understand leeks when I was growing up; in fact, I never ate them. It took living in France for me to fall for them.

This Leek Quiche recipe, from my cookbook “V Is for Vegetables,” was not only the first thing I learned in cooking school in Paris; it was also part of my final “exam.” I had to make it under the close scrutiny of the chefs. So you’d better believe I take leeks seriously.

Leeks are the mildest of the indispensable onion family, less pungent than garlic and shallots, richer and more discreet when cooked. We do not eat them raw, but they soften quickly, and as they warm, their deliciousness is revealed. Leeks are easy to use. Make sure to wash them thoroughly (soil lodges in their tight layers).

This quiche has three distinctive components: the dough, the filling and the egg mixture, good things to perfect! It’s delicious for breakfast and lunch at home with any number of filling variations: mushrooms, spinach, onions and so on. The tart comes together pretty quickly if you make the dough in advance. You’ll only need the white and pale green leek parts for the quiche, so save the dark greens for stock.

Leek Quiche

Servings: 1 (10-inch) quiche

Ingredients

TART DOUGH

1 ¾ cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
9 tablespoons butter, cubed and chilled
1 egg yolk
Up to 4 tablespoons ice water

FILLING

4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, plus more for the pan
3 large leeks (white and pale green parts), diced
1 large clove garlic, minced
Salt and pepper
Small handful fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Flour (for the pan and rolling the dough)
½ cup whole milk
½ cup heavy cream
2 eggs
1 egg yolk
Pinch grated nutmeg
Salt and pepper
¾ cup grated Parmigiano

Directions

Stir together the flour and salt in a large bowl. Add the butter and, little by little, work it into the flour with your fingertips, flattening it to create a sandy mixture. The idea is not to overwork the dough and the key is to start with cold butter and touch it with only your fingertips.

Add the yolk and 2 tablespoons of the ice water, then lightly stir and fold it in with your fingers.

Do not worry if the mixture seems too dry and like it won’t come together. Just add more water, drop by drop, until it does.

When the mixture just barely becomes a dough, transfer to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for about an hour.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Heat the 4 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Sweat the leeks and garlic with salt and pepper until soft, about 10 minutes. Take off the heat and stir in the parsley, then set the leek mixture aside to cool.

Meanwhile, butter and flour a 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, then set it on a baking sheet. Roll out the dough on a floured surface to about 1/8 inch thick. Fit the dough into the tart pan, trim off any excess, and poke the bottom with a fork in several places to let air escape and help the dough keep its shape while cooking.

Line the tart shell with a circle of parchment paper and fill with dried chickpeas, beans, or pie weights. Bake for about 25 minutes, then remove the parchment and beans and bake until the crust is golden and cooked through, another 10 minutes.

When the tart shell is ready, whisk together the milk, cream, eggs, yolk, nutmeg, and 2 pinches each of salt and pepper. Spread the leek mixture evenly in the shell, then gently pour in the milk mixture, leaving the top of the crust exposed. Do not overfill! Top with the cheese and bake until the filling is set and golden brown, about 30 minutes. Let it sit for 10 minutes before serving.

Michael Anthony is the executive chef-partner of Gramercy Tavern, chef-partner of Lex Yard at the Waldorf Astoria, and the author of “The Gramercy Tavern Cookbook.” He has received several James Beard Awards including Best Chef in New York City, Outstanding Chef, and a James Beard Book Award for his cookbook “V Is for Vegetables.” Prior to joining Gramercy Tavern in 2006, he was the executive chef of Blue Hill at Stone Barns.